Tripoli, or Tarabalus Al-Gharb (Tripoli of the West in Arabic), is the major city and de facto capital of Libya. The climate of Tripoli is Mediterranean with hot dry summers, cool winters and some modest rainfall. Weather can be variable, influenced by the Sahara Desert and the Mediterranean Sea which moderates daily temperature ranges. The old walled city of Tripoli, the Medina, is one of the classical sites of the Mediterranean.

The basic street plan was laid down in the Roman period when the walls were constructed on the landward sides against attacks from the interior of Tripolitania. The high walls survived many invasions, each conqueror restoring the damage done. In the 8th century the Muslim ruler built a wall on the sea-facing side of the city. Three great gates gave access to the town, Bab Zanata on the west, Bab Hawara on the south east and Bab Al-Bahr in the north wall. The castle, Al-Saraya Al-Hamra, occupies a site known to be pre-Roman in the east quadrant of the old city and still dominates the skyline of Tripoli. Any tour of the old city should begin at the castle, entered from the land side near Suq Al-Mushir.

It houses a library and a well-organized museum and has excellent views over the city from the walls. The Castle Museum is essentially concerned with the archaeology and ancient history of Libya. It covers the Phoenician, Greek and Roman periods well and has an expanding collection of materials on the Islamic period. The old city has several key elements worth visiting. The old city walls are still standing and can be climbed. The Harbour Monument stands at the gates of the old city on the edge of the former corniche road adjacent to the castle. There are a number of restored houses, consulates and a synagogue in the narrow streets of the old city. There are a number of interesting mosques including the Karamanli Mosque, the En-Naqah Mosque and the Gurgi Mosque both in the old town and adjacent to it. The best known of t he Tripoli mosques is the Gurgi Mosque with its elegant architecture.

It was built comparatively recently in 1833 by Yussef Gurgi. If the travellerGurgi Mosque is the one to choose. Modern Tripoli spilled out from the tight confines of the old city as early as the 18th century and possibly before that. The main commercial streets lie in the centre. Most lead off Green Square in front of the castle. All street names are in Arabic but Libyans will assist in giving directions. Walking around Tripoli centre is straight forward. For a tour of the modern city on foot begin in Green Square and travel West along Sharah Omar Mukhtar to see th

e private business district. wishes to view just one of Tripoli's mosques, the

Turn round at the Tripoli Fair building and return to Green Square from which go due South down Sharah Mohammed Magarief towards the post office and former cathedral. From the post office square (Maidan Al-Jaza'er) either turn directly right to Sharah Tahiti and thence right again into one of the commercial thorough-fares with small Arab lock-up shops or go on past the post office towards the People's Palace and thence right to the harbor front and back towards the Green Square. This itinerary shows the best if the modern city. Details

Still the White Bride

Tripoli continues to be one of the most beautiful cities along the Mediterrenean Sea. The seaside promenade in the modern part is impressive, but perhaps a little bit sterile. Sterility is good and bad in Tripoli, at the same time. Commercials are not choking it's charm, but there could have been more activity going on.
Tripoli has a friendly, where the merchants are almost not aiming at selling souvenirs to foreigners. If it was possible, the Libyans here are even more friendly than Libyans in general, and they are not going for your money. This has to do with Libyas economy being far better than in the poorer neighbour countries, but not so heaped up that old traditions have lost its true content. Tripoli's old city is a must for female travellers wanting to get away from the showers of dirty proposals common in neighbouring Tunisia.
The Libyan national museum, the Jamahiriya Museum, is highly recommended, and perhaps the main attracation of Tripoli. Delightfully arranged, it is far less of the air-less box museums often are.
After walking around town all day (driving will drive you mad), you don't have to leave town to get a dip. The beaches of Tripoli are there just in front of you, and clean enough to take a swim.



Eat and Sleep
If you have the money, Tripoli offers excellent services for accommodation, but except for the US$7 per night beds-in-dormitory hostel, the rock bottom prices for hotels start at around US$40. From that point of, all categories are covered up till the level of US$200 per night. All these prices are according to official exchange rates.
One would have expected more restaurants in Tripoli, you often will have to wait for a table, but things are rapidly improving. Prices start at the very affordable, around US$6 for a full plate up to US$60 in the more posh restaurants. For more charming eating, head up to the old town, where quality often can compare with the very best restaurants, at a fraction of the price.

Transportation
With the consistent lack of spare parts for Libya's air fleet, one should certainly avoid using air planes while travelling inside of Libya. This is sad, as the country's system is very well developed, and cheap.

Going Next
70 km west: Sabratha
130 km southwest: Yefren
100 km south: Gharyan
800 km south: Sebha
120 km east: Leptis Magna
200 km southeast: Misrata
1000 km east: Benghazi

Aurelian Arch

Very, very little survives of the Roman town Oea. The four-pillared arch of Marcus Aurelius from ca. 164 CE is virtually the only exception to this. To a large extent, the arch served as entrance to the city. It was the only one of Oea.
The arch contains fine decorations, showing Apollo and Minerva. Now-empty niches contained statues of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus.

Modern city

Modern Tripoli is not a terribly beautiful city. Large parts of city centre are testimony of bad planning and poor engineering. But in and between, there are some fine examples of modern architecture too.
Nice things have happened to the corniche of Tripoli in recent years, and attractive gardens have opened.